Your Marquise Puzzle Ring Style and Weave

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Your Marquise Puzzle Ring Style and Weave

Your Marquise Puzzle Ring Style and Weave

Our number one selling engagement puzzle ring is the marquise – whether set with a diamond or a colored gemstone, this ring is sophisticated and exquisitely beautiful, and this was the stone that this puzzle ring was originally designed to hold. The marquise setting is not without its issues, and I will describe them elsewhere on this page, but this is a ring towards which many women, including me, take the attitude, “I must have it! I will deal with the issues.”

We use the same basic four band puzzle ring for almost all of our engagement rings. The four band, medium weight, puzzle rings that hold up to a 0.72CT diamond or colored gemstone – a heavier weight ring will hold a heavier diamond or gemstone – is the same basic puzzle ring.

Each ring is named for the setting that holds the stone. Of course, in the case of the marquise, it just so happens that it also refers to the shape of the stone. Please note that other jewelers call the entire ring without the diamond or gemstone a “setting.” We do not. We call the ring a puzzle ring. And we call the head that holds the stone “the setting.” What makes our puzzle rings unique is that each one is individually hand-woven for the very shape and size of the stone and setting you select as well as with the weave that you choose.

You may choose from a tight, standard, or open weave for your puzzle ring. There are a few things to consider, and I’ll walk you through them. Your choice of weave will be made in part by the type of wedding ring that you may ultimately select to go with the engagement puzzle ring.

Open Weave Marquise Puzzle Ring
Some people wear an open weave puzzle ring by itself, an engagement ring and wedding band in one. Still others pair an open weave puzzle ring with a wedding band with a uniform width all the way around. But many of our clients seek a wedding band that is custom made to fit perfectly with the puzzle ring. For these clients, we suggest an open weave puzzle ring and a custom-fit shadow band. We can make your shadow band in any of several styles, all of which look fabulous with an open weave puzzle ring. 

marquise diamond engagement ring with four bands in four colors of 14k gold

Marquise diamond puzzle ring in four colors of 14k gold










At left is an open weave marquise royale puzzle ring with a Celtic knotwork shadow band.

The royale version of a puzzle ring (pronounced roy-Al, with the emphasis on the second syllable) has side stones, generally five-point diamonds or colored gemstones.

Celtic bridal set with a marquise diamond and emerald puzzle ring and a Celtic wedding band

Celtic bridal set with a marquise diamond and emerald puzzle ring and Celtic wedding band











There are many styles of shadow bands that we can make to go with your open weave marquise puzzle ring. We can make a shadow band with gemstones or without, with a design such as the knotwork shown above or a claddagh. At left is a 0.70CT marquise aquamarine with a one-half carat total weight diamond shadow band, all in palladium.

Four band puzzle ring with marquise aquamarine paired with a 5-diamond shadow band

Marquise aquamarine four band puzzle ring with a five-diamond shadow band












Our most popular shadow band is a simple 2mm plain shadow band. Shown at left is a marquise Tsavorite garnet puzzle ring with open weave and a 1.7mm wide shadow band, all in palladium. We can make your shadow band in virtually any design you desire.

4 piece puzzle ring with one half carat tsavorite green garnet and custom fit shadow band

Marquise tsavorite garnet four band puzzle ring with 2mm shadow band bridal set











Standard Weave Marquise Puzzle Ring
A standard weave marquise puzzle ring has a slightly tighter weave than the rings shown above. The front loops are still fairly “airy,” meaning you can see air between the metal bands, but the width of the ring at front center is more modest.

Our standard weave puzzle rings are our second most popular after the open weave. You can pair a standard weave puzzle ring with a wedding band with a uniform width all the way around. Yes, we can make a shadow band to go with a standard weave puzzle ring, but there won’t be as much shape to the sides of the rings to help them “hang together” as there will be with an open weave ring.


Palladium 4 piece puzzle ring with marquise diamond and standard weave

Four band marquise diamond puzzle engagement ring with standard weave.










Marquise Setting – The Pros and Cons
The marquise setting that we use is the most secure of all the marquise settings we have found. Notice the “v-shaped” prongs on either end. These are quite unusual in the jewelry industry, and these are what make our marquise setting more sturdy than most. But . . . full disclosure: About twice a year, we have a client who reports a bent prong (of course, we fix it for them). Occasionally, there is even a lost stone. Then it helps a lot if the ring was insured (our diamonds of 3/8ths carat or greater do include one free year of loss protection for the diamond only, and by the time the year is up, we recommend having the ring fully insured – more about that later.)

Compare the “v-prongs” on the ends of the setting shown above with the more prongs on a marquise setting more typically offered by the jewelry industry, shown below. With the setting below, one tap to the side of the stone will dislodge it from the prongs on the ends. This is why we are fanatical about using the sturdiest settings on our rings. However, in the interest of full disclosure, there are other things to consider when you wish to choose the marquise setting.









One issue with the marquise setting is that it holds the diamond high off the ring, and the ends are pointed. So the stone can catch on things. It can also scratch other people! My husband has been scratched by my marquise puzzle ring more times than he’d care to remember. (Don’t even think about wearing this ring to bed!) It may not be the best choice for nurses or those working with children; for those who must wear rubber gloves; or those doing heavy work, working outdoors, handling boxes, etc.

If the stone catches severely, a prong can bend or the setting altogether can bend. If something is bent enough, the stone can come out. All of our other puzzle ring settings are more reliable than the marquise. Even though we can’t say the marquise setting is as bulletproof as the Guinevere, the Athena, or the Avalon, we continue to carry it. This is because it is so beautiful, it is stronger than every other marquise setting out there, and many women (this writer included) say, I don’t mind the risk, this is the only setting and stone shape for me!”

So this is the one ring that we recommend removing before sleep, and we keep sounding the drumbeat: insure your ring, insure your ring, insure your ring! You can insure it at, a reliable company that offers individual personal jewelry policies. This is the same company that insures virtually every jewelry store in America – they are well organized, and they do a great job.

I will confess that I am possibly the greatest klutz when it comes to wearing jewelry (Tom calls me “destructo Mandira” in other areas of my life), and I have yet to bend a prong, so it is definitely not a given that you will experience this. But it can happen. 

BTW, what is the standard of the industry with regards to the strength of stone settings? Well, one well known diamond seller has this to say, “Always be aware of what you are doing with your hands while wearing your diamond.” Yes, it would be great if we were all mindful all the time, right? But how many of us are? And the second standard, “Stop by our store twice a year, so we can check your setting,” is helpful if you don’t have clients all over the world like we do. This is why we are committed to using only the strongest setting possible for your ring!

Notice how high off the ring this stone is held. A four band, medium weight puzzle ring with a marquise diamond will have a height of approximately 6.9 to 8.5mm, depending upon the diamond size. This height includes the puzzle ring base and the setting holding the stone.

Side view of the Marquise Diamond Puzzle Ring Scroll setting

Side view of the scroll setting on this puzzle ring







Okay, enough digression! Back to the marquise puzzle ring with standard weave.
The marquise puzzle ring with a standard weave is often paired with a wedding band with a uniform width. This includes contemporary and traditional posy rings, custom posy rings, and Irish Celtic rings.

Marquise diamond, four piece puzzle ring with a yovrs onli posy ring in yellow gold

Marquise diamond, four band puzzle ring with a ‘yovrs onli’ English Renaissance reproduction posy ring. The diamond size is 0.46CT, and this ring can hold up to a 0.72CT diamond.










The bridal set shown immediately below is a standard weave puzzle ring with an Irish Celtic eternal knot band.

Four band puzzle ring with sapphire and diamonds and Celtic knot wedding band

Celtic bridal set with four band puzzle ring with sapphire and diamonds and Irish eternal knot wedding band.











Although it has a bit of a gap between the wedding band and the shoulders and sides of the puzzle ring, it creates a more eclectic look. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, this is the style of bridal set I wear, though my puzzle ring has an open weave and thus has a bigger gap (see images below, Mandira).

Four band puzzle ring with center sapphire, accent diamonds, and Celtic knot wedding ring

Celtic engagement puzzle ring with sapphire center,
accent diamonds, and recessed eternal knot band. 

Check out the picture below, sent to us by a bride in Canada who wears this set.

Three piece wedding set

Three piece wedding set with a puzzle ring with a standard weave.













Do you see that the bridal set worn by our client has a more eclectic look to it than does a bridal set with a shadow band? I wear my bridal set which is similar to this, because I love the look of two rings that were individually selected – rather than made to go together – it’s sort of my style. It depends upon your taste. I notice that at times the center loop of the puzzle ring floats under the wedding band, creating a tighter look to the set. Other times, it floats away a tad as shown in this image.

Tightly Woven Puzzle Ring
A tightly woven marquise diamond puzzle ring is usually paired with a ring of any style, with or without stones, that has a uniform width all the way around – like most wedding bands.

Our traditional and contemporary posy rings and our Celtic wedding rings all have a uniform width. However, for some reason, I don’t have a photograph of a tightly woven, marquise puzzle ring with a wedding band. This could be because relatively few people order the tightest weave.


Four band marquise diamond puzzle ring with tight weave

Tightly woven marquise diamond four band puzzle ring








Modified Shadow Band Option
On the other hand, a custom option for a tightly woven puzzle ring is a tapered wedding band that is custom fit to the puzzle ring, without matching up to every nook and cranny of the front of the puzzle ring. The trinity band puzzle ring shown at left has only one “nook” in the front, and this modified shadow band ignores it, as you’ll see in the image, below.

Trinity puzzle ring with diamond and custom wedding band

Trinity knot, three-band puzzle ring with diamond and custom fit wedding band











This option fits better with the puzzle ring than a regular wedding band does, though more of our customers have opted for a posy or Celtic wedding band with a uniform width with this ring and are reportedly very happy with their choice! The ring shown below has inside engraving, and we made a matching wedding band for the groom, also with inside engraving.

Trinity puzzle ring with marquise diamond and shadow wedding band

Three band puzzle ring with marquise diamond and
custom fit wedding band.

And now for a marquise puzzle ring shown on a heavier weight
The ring below bears a 1CT marquise Tsavorite garnet. It is shown on a standard weave, medium heavy puzzle ring, one of the three weights we use for heavier stones. 

one carat tsavorite garnet puzzle ring in 14K yellow gold

A one carat tsavorite garnet on a medium heavy weight 14K yellow gold puzzle ring with 14K white gold setting.











Marquise sapphire four band puzzle ring

3/4CT marquise sapphire on medium heavy weight puzzle ring
in a standard weave.

We don’t have to go that heavy for a puzzle ring holding a 1CT stone. This bridal set is shown with a 1CT Mozambique garnet on a just-over-medium-weight puzzle ring. This weight lends itself very well to the open weave, though the medium heavy can also be made with an open weave.

Four piece puzzle ring bridal set with one carat marquise garnet and wedding ring with garnets and diamonds

Four band puzzle ring with one carat garnet and shadow wedding band with garnets and diamonds.












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